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St. Michaels, Maryland: The Eastern Shore's In(N) Town
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By W. Lynn Seldon Jr.
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Maryland.com
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Kent Island Escape
A great stop for a romantic getaway is The Kent Manor Inn, located on historic Kent Island, and just five minutes from the Chesapeake Bay Bridge. The Kent Manor Inn with its period furnishings, marble fireplaces, porches and private baths, dates back to 1651 when its 226 picturesque acres were offered to the second Lord Baltimore in exchange for his loyalty to England. In 1820, the landowners built a farmhouse, now the left wing of the current building. In 1843 the Inn was given to Alexander Thompson by his parents. He lived there for about 30 years with his three wives. During his "reign" the "good-natured" Thompson built the middle section of the Inn, which is where his bedroom used to be and where some mysterious activities are reported to take place such as banging pipes, flickering lights and doors that open after being shut and locked. The Inn offers cooking lessons from Executive Chef Dennis Shakan, who is trained in Classical French Cooking. Every meal is unforgettable with exceptional service, a fine wine list, and such creative entrees as Herb Crusted Ostrich Tenderloin or Twin Buffalo Medallions prepared in a New American Cuisine style.
The Kent Manor Inn, 500 Kent Dr., Stevensville, MD 21666. 1.800.820-4511 or 410.643.5757.
Web site: www.kentmanor.com.
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An inn experience on the Maryland's Eastern Shore is unlike any other to be found in the United States. It's a sensory barrage of interesting locals, charming accommodations, history, savory fare, as well as excellent antiques and crafts shopping.
The town of St. Michaels, Maryland, and the surrounding Talbot County countryside just may provide the quintessential Eastern Shore experience. Whether you come for the quaint atmosphere, the quiet, or some spicy steamed crabs, this town is a feast for (and in) every sense.
St. Michaels offers everything to the traveler in search of the typical Eastern Shore visit. It all starts with an incredibly varied selection of excellent accommodations and ends with too much to do for a short stay.
One of the most unique destinations is the Inn at Christmas Farm, seven miles northwest of town. Situated at the end of a long dirt road and featuring a friendly welcome by lots of dogs, this working farm offers one of the most memorable inn visits in the region.
Bea and David Lee have turned their 50-acre farm into an idyllic haven for St. Michaels visitors. They offer three private and well-furnished rooms in the main house and a charming annex suite called Christmas Cottage, but the converted chapel is the real draw. Here, they relocated and transformed a small church into two suites with full amenities, which any inn-lover will worship.
The charming country-style chapel suites feature separate sitting rooms, private baths, a creative self-service breakfast, and a deck or patio overlooking the farm, lots of friendly animals, and a wonderfully new crystal-clear pond popular for swimming. From colorful peacocks and their chicks, five dogs, fields of crops and the quiet of the country, this place is still a St. Michaels secret. Bea (an international trade attorney) and David (a steamship freight broker) are informative hosts and wonderful company during a very unique St. Michaels stay.
Also just outside of town, the Wades Point Inn is one of the most popular choices on the Eastern Shore. At the end of a long lane, Betsy Feiler plays host to 24 panoramic Bay view rooms, a sprawling lawn, and lots of balconies and porches. The Main House offers typical bed-and-breakfast rooms, while the new adjoining Mildred T. Kemp building offers modern accommodations and stunning balcony views of the property and water.
The Parsonage Inn is a popular choice in the heart of St. Michaels. This former Victorian parsonage was converted into a seven-room bed-and-breakfast inn in 1985. Though meticulously furnished to replicate the late Victorian period, all modern conveniences have been included. Bedrooms have king- or queen-sized brass beds, Queen Anne-style furniture, Laura Ashley linens, and adjoining private baths. It's the perfect in-town choice and Will Workman is a perfect history-loving host.
Other excellent accommodations options in the St. Michaels area include: The Inn at Perry Cabin (this renowned upscale inn is closed for renovations and expansion until May, 2002); Five Gables Inn & Spa (including an excellent on-site spa); and The Old Brick Inn (with Federal-style architecture and all amenities). Better yet, try more than one inn during one or multiple St. Michaels visits!
Once situated in an inn of choice, any St. Michaels visit should begin with two activities to gain a good overall view of the area. Be sure to visit the interesting Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum and then continue down the busy dock to take an informative tour on the water with Patriot Cruises.
The Maritime Museum provides a surprisingly un-museum-like introduction to the Eastern Shore and the Chesapeake Bay. Located on a peninsula in the harbor of St. Michaels, visitors can trace the history of the Bay and its traditions of boat building, commercial fishing, yachting, waterfowling (make sure to ask about the phenomenal fall Waterfowl Festival), navigation, and many other interesting items unique to the Bay. Major museum features include a 100-year-old "screwpile" lighthouse, a restored log-bottom bugeye, a skipjack, a racing log canoe, and a comprehensive decoy and waterfowling presentation. The Museum Store is a great place to find unique gifts.
Patriot Cruises offers a large array of tour possibilities and one of the best is the 90-minute orientation tour along the Miles River, a beautiful arm of the Chesapeake Bay. Curious cruisers enjoy an excellent narrative by Captain David Etzel, incredible views, lots of interesting history, and many Eastern Shore anecdotes. On a sunny day or crisp evening, this may be the highlight of a St. Michaels visit.
Once you have your bearings and history lessons, St. Michaels is a wonderful town for strolling and shopping. The lively streets lead to several unique shops and shopkeepers. Antique-buyers and those in search of local crafts will shop 'til they drop back in their comfortable inn beds.
Among many possibilities, several "can't miss" shopping stops along Talbot Street include: Pennywhistle Antiques (several dealers in 11 different rooms); Sentimental Journey Antiques (ask about their antique oyster plates); Sailor II; and Chesapeake Bay Outfitters.
After a day of exploration, head for ice cream at Justine's Ice Cream Parlour along Talbot Street or enjoy some local flavor and tasty cold beverages at the Carpenter Street Saloon.
An Eastern Shore stop is also the perfect time to be crabby and happy at the same time. Dining on crabs will be one of the highlights of any St. Michaels visit. Blue crabs are a delicacy of the Chesapeake Bay and there are many flavorful places to enjoy them right on the water.
Two local restaurants where you can enjoy steamed crabs and Eastern Shore atmosphere are St. Michaels Crab House & Restaurant and the Crab Claw Restaurant. The former is known for a filling and fun all-you-can-eat platter of crabs, corn-on-the-cob, and french fries. The second is often packed with tourists, but that's because the view (and the crabs) are so good.
If you've never picked crabs, just ask your server for a quick lesson in this wonderfully tasty (and messy!) experience. Diners who fall in love with the famed blue crabs and other fruits of the Chesapeake Bay should head to Big Al's Market on Talbot Street so they can carry home a bit of the Eastern Shore for a tasty reminder of the trip (just make sure to buy enough ice).
For those who want to venture further afield, there are many other accommodations and outings options close by and all along the Eastern Shore. One short drive not to be missed is out to Tilghman Island for a taste of the Eastern Shore at work (in the water) and at play (in any of the excellent local restaurants and bars).
Out on Tilghman, the Harrison family has been welcoming guests for fresh seafood and more since the late-1800s. Harrison's Chesapeake House is a Tilghman tradition, thanks to waterfront decks, picnic tables, steamed crabs and lots of other fresh seafood, pitchers of ice-cold beer, and freshly brewed tea (and great sport fishing, by the way). If, like many, you decide to stay the night, The Lazyjack Inn, Chesapeake Wood Duck Inn, and The Tilghman Island Inn, are all a continuation of the in(n) tradition of the area.
Many will fall in love with the inn experience of the area and should contact the Inns of the Eastern Shore, an excellent association of unique inns and bed-and-breakfasts all along the Eastern Shore of Maryland and Virginia. If you're like many inn-lovers, the in(n) town of St. Michaels and the surrounding countryside will only whet your appetite for a bigger bit of the Eastern Shore.
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